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The Great Railway Bazaar: By Train Through Asia, by Paul Theroux
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About the Author
PAUL THEROUX is the author of many highly acclaimed books. His novels include The Lower River and The Mosquito Coast, and his renowned travel books include Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and Dark Star Safari. He lives in Hawaii and Cape Cod.
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Product details
Paperback: 352 pages
Publisher: Mariner Books; Reprint edition (June 1, 2006)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9780618658947
ISBN-13: 978-0618658947
ASIN: 0618658947
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 0.9 x 8.3 inches
Shipping Weight: 7.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.0 out of 5 stars
150 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#46,360 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
He was 31 and married with two small children, living in a small house in London. He had no "job" as such but he had multiple narrative and pedagogical skills. He was French Canadian, a native of New England, a product of its best Universities. He had been a teacher of English with the Peace Corps in Malawi and Uganda for four years and, with other sponsors. for two years in Singapore. He was now (in 1972) a "writer" of sorts and had always loved trains. So in the late summer of that year he set out to cross Asia and back by train - alone. After four months "on the road" - mainly by rail - he returned, rejoined his family and two years later published his first travel book -The Great Railway Bazaar. It was an instant success; and in the ensuing 40 odd years Paul Theroux novelist, teacher, man of letters and social critic has not only become the dean of travel writers with more than 10 books on travel to his credit but an established novelist, essayist and short story writer as well a published author of more than 35 books of non-travel books in his name. I read Bazaar when it was first published and became a Theroux fan on the spot; and since then I have read and cheered every one of its "issue"; but I have never written any comments on Bazaar. However, having just finished his last and perhaps his final travel book (The Last Train From Zona Verde,) I think it's time to say something about Bazaar which I have read again for this purpose. Bazaar starts from London in 1972 with a rail trip to Paris where Theroux boards the "Direct-Orient-Express" which is not to be confused with Agatha Christy's or Alfred Hitchcock's luxury train. There's only one sleeping car for Istanbul via Milan, Venice and Belgrade. And you wouldn't want any of your family to have to travel on it. There's no dining car. You are pretty much on your own for a couple of days, But Istanbul is, as always, engaging. Then it's the "Express" across Turkey to the border of Iran, another "Express" to Teheran, a flight to Peshawar and then the Khyber Pass Local and the Frontier Mail to Mumbai (then Bombay), Indian trains of the mid 1970s too numerous to mention here - Bombay, Simla, New Delhi, Calcutta. A train to Ceylon (before it was Sri Lanka). A flight to Burma (when it was still Burma). Then The Mandalay express. Up country through Vietnam (where the war was still winding down) . A flight to Japan. Tokyo. Kyoto. The fast Japanese trains. And then - by contrast - a voyage ("storm tossed" is the proper phrase for it) to the Eastern Terminus of the Trans Siberian "Express" in the USSR and ten days across Siberia in late December. (Can you imagine ten days on a train in a small compartment with another occupant and never a bath? You really have to love trains!) And, finally, three days after Christmas he's home It was a time when travel in most of the countries he visited was for the hardy and adventurous. There was no internet, no GPS,no email, no iPhone. You used the telegraph system such as it was to communicate with home. Credit cards were generally a thing of the future so you carried your money in a money belt and used bank drafts (when available) for your cash. The modern preventatives or analgesics for Delhi Belly, its children and cousins, were in the future. And personal cleanliness while traveling was obviously a luxury if it could be accommodated at all. Curiously Theroux has never to my memory commented on any of these things. Yes, I have read in some of his books where he has been ill, but we never read of the ordinary vicissitudes of travel -- problems which the rest of us have when we just go to New York. Nor do we nor have we read about his travel plans. Is it all catch-as-catch-can? What was the preparation for the trip? (Obviously there was and had been some preparation because he frequently writes about giving lectures or teaching, and there needs to be some advance work for this.) And where does he find all the books he talks about reading as he goes? They're great books for the time but none that I would expect to find in your corner book store. Now back to Bazaar . As I said I was hooked the first time I read it. And this time it was even better because using Google Earth and Google Maps one can get a pretty good picture of where he is, how he was traveling and what he was seeing. So this is Theroux in his first book, already at the top of his game and a book to spend an evening of two with now in 2013 just as it was when I read in forty years ago. And I guarantee you will like it too
This is a non-fiction story that Mr. Theroux wrote around 1973. He travels by rail from Western Europe all around Asia and writes down his experiences. If you want a day to day travel log and what stuff costs, and recommendations and that sort of thing, look elsewhere. But if you want an engaging story and a look of what the world looked like in 1973 (which I think helps explain where we are today) then this is a great read. Strongly recommended. Also check our Mr. Theroux's similar books, one being "Riding the Iron Rooster-By Train Through China" where he does the same thing this time having taken a year to ride trains throughout China in 1988, just prior to the Tienanmen Square uprising and repression. Again, a fascinating read.
In 1973 Theroux was a struggling novelist barely scraping by in London with wife and kid when he got the idea to take trains across Europe and Asia write a book about it. Good idea. It made his career (that, and his long, fortuitous association with Nobel laureate V.S. Naipaul, who served as his mentor and entree in literary London.)Re-reading The Great Railway Bazaar after some 30 years I found that it still intrigued--though I was struck by how sardonic Theroux is throughout. But that sarcasm and wit kept me turning pages--along with his novelist's craft, an eye for anomaly, and a string of eccentric characters he encounters on his route. The book also serves up some time traveling--gone now are Yugoslavia, the Soviet Union, the Shah of Iran, Ceylon, and Burma, at least in name. Also affecting was the knowledge, from today's perspective, of the wars and horrors soon to be visited in coming decades on the people he meets across both Europe and Asia.
There is nothing like a good travel book to relax with after the usual stresses of the day, especially for those who might never expect to travel through, e.g., India, Japan, and Russia on the Trans-Siberian Express. The publication date of 1975 takes us back to those years when "hippies" were everywhere, including, as Paul Theroux informs us, on trains in exotic places. His descriptions of these personalities (and many others encountered) give us a picture of hardened, selfish, unrealistic individuals presumably on a spiritual quest. As great as this book is, and as highly recommended as it is, the reader's steadfast traveling companion can only be the author and what he sees and experiences, and Theroux sees through a glass very darkly. Travel experiences in retrospect have what can be identified as their highest and lowest points, highest meaning a moment of realization, a discovery of human goodness and genuine spirituality that brings the potential for a true change in outlook regarding human beings and human conditions. Theroux's books lack these latter nourishing views of life, so that the reader becomes as tired as he does near the merciful end of his months-long journey (with his usual heavy consumption of alcohol) on the Siberian Express, with everything utterly boring, and with time passing painfully slow The account has to be honest about "the way it is," but at one point Theroux is telling all of the insipid travelers he encounters that he is a dentist, in order to avoid engaging them about his lifework, causing one poor fellow to consult him about his decaying teeth. Theroux advises him to seek treatment as soon as possible, and gives him two aspirins.The author may not be able to be called a "misanthrope" in the strict definition of the word, but he comes close. So this is our traveling companion in the otherwise "great railway bazaar," and there is no letup in the way that he sees and experiences life.
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